Karine Vann
The enormous 240-gallon clay vessel, or karas, was nestled snugly in the corner of Asli Saghatelyan’s maran (storage
cellar) in Chiva, a modest village in the Vayots Dzor region of
Armenia. Asli and her son Mushegh watched with curious faces as I beheld
their egg-shaped earthenware with awe.
The Saghatelyans no longer use this forlorn family heirloom, the
girth of which exceeds the width of the door’s frame. It belonged to the
family’s now-deceased patriarch, who used it to make homemade wine
through a traditional process of fermentation and storage that people in
this region have used for millennia. At one point, the family possessed
at least five of them. Today only two are still intact.